Sport climbing: Schubert s third World Cup gold - two DAV

Natalia Grossman (born June 22, 2001) is an American rock climber. She stands for the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cup in bouldering as well as lead, and has two Rock World Cup wins at Salt Lake City in May 2021. She is 2021 World Champion in bouldering.

Jakob Schubert will keep this year in a special memory, because the Innsbrucker was the only sports climber, which stood both at the Olympic Games and the World Championships held from 15 to 21 September in sports climbing on the podium.

Schubert s nerves made of steel

Had the 30-year-old in Tokyo, where only the format Olympic Combined (three-battle from Speed, Bouldern and Lead) was held, with a true parforce ride still managed to jump on the podium and bronze, the Routinian also held the Annoy. In the lead, Schubert s paradised discipline, the 19-year-old Slovene Luka Potocar had greatly presented in the final with the reach of the top grip, so the Austrian was once again facing the challenge to arrive at the top.

Thanks to his fighter nature shown in Tokyo, these stemmed, because he said himself, he did not know in the end as he had managed to top the route. Honestly, I am not very well climbed especially in the technical part, but somehow I have recovered, says Schubert overjoyed after him after Paris 2012 and Innsbruck 2018 the third World Cup gold had been hung around his neck. Ultimately, Schubert had beaten the challenger Potocar only because of the better result in the qualification, because even in the semi-finals both climbers were equal (40+).

Honestly, I m not very well climbed especially in the technical part, but somehow I have recovered.

Jakob Schubert

Dav-athlete Halenke shreds just past the podium

Just on a possible medal pasted Dav-athlete Sebastian Halenke. The 26-year-old from Lahr came in the narrow final to reached 44+, but then slipped away with the left hand from the handle just under the top and had to settle with the nevertheless fifth place.

Podium within reach, at the end of fifth: DAV-Climber Sebastian Halenke IFSC

Two bitter moments for flea

His colleague Yannick Flohé missed the final of the best eight lead climbers conceivable. The 22-year-old Essen landed in the semifinal in Nine, equal to the Japanese Yoshiyuki Ogata (both 37+), but this had cut a little better in the first qualifier.

For Flohé it was the second bitter moment at the World Cup in Moscow, because in the Boulder competition, the World Cup third in the bouldering (2019 in Hachoji) had a bear-strong first quality round, which was opened (first place with the later World Champion Kokoro Fujii) Semifinals then completely messed (15 from 20). Another World Cup medal in bouldering had to remain a dream.

A medal for consolation

And yet Flohé was ended world champion - in combined rating. He participated like only a few athletes and athletes at all three competitions in Moscow, a separate competition with multiplied results as with Olympia was not held. This may well be considered as a clear sign against this extra format for the Olympic premiere. Flea was still allowed to feel as the best three-fighter - ninth in the lead, 42nd in the speed and 15th in bouldering - the Essen brought in front of Dav colleague Philipp Martin, who was rewarded with World Cup silver, WM-Gold.

Dav climber Yannick Flea brought himself to the World Cup title as the best combiner. Picture alliance

Successful farewell for DAV-National Trainer Urs Stöcker

The two combination medals were thus a nice farewell gift for the outgoing national coach Urs Stöcker. It s nice to finish the time with the German team with a World Cup title, although the combination at the World Cup was not in focus, said the native Swiss opposite the Jakob Schubert.

After a strenuous Olympic preparation and the World Cup as a highlight degree, all involved in the competition scene was found to relieve that the mammoth program is now over this year under Corona conditions. Everyone breathes now, says Stöcker.

The 44-year-old, who has worked as a national coach for the DAV since 2017, will join the Swiss climbing team in the future. His farewell from the DAV shortly after the Olympic games came surprising. I wanted to try something new and develop myself. I was a purely personal decision, Stöcker explained his step back to the Swiss home.

All World Cup decisions at a glance

Speed ​​Men: Gold Danyil Boldyrev (Ukraine), Silver Erik Noya Cardona (Spain), Bronze Noah Bratschi USA)

Speed ​​Women: Gold Natalia Kolucka (Poland), Silver Julia Kaplina (Russia), Bronze Aleksandra Miroslaw (Poland)

Bouldering men: Gold Kokoro Fujii (Japan), Silver Tomoa Nasaraki (Japan), Bronze Manuel Cornu (France)

Bouldering Women : Gold Natalia Grossman (USA), Silver Camilla Moroni (Italy), Bronze Stasa Gejo (Serbia)

Lead Men: Gold Jakob Schubert (Austria), Silver Luka Potocar (Slovenia), Bronze Hamish McARthur (United Kingdom) Lead Women: Gold Seo Chae-Hyun (South Korea), Silver Natalia Grossman (USA), Bronze Laura Rogora (Italy)